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Editor's note: Except for the movement, the Vaer C3 covered by our reviewer Brett is functionally identical to the newer Vaer S3.

Microbrands can be a divisive topic when it comes to watches, especially ones that don't get as much praise or coverage from reviewers. Over the past year or two, I’ve noticed that Vaer has certainly put out a number of advertisements for their affordable timepieces of various design. The reviews I've seen can be polarizing since many pieces homage other classic pieces but these reviews are generally good, which may ease the growing pains of a mid-size business that the consumer may not be aware of.

When it comes to field watches, the price point is often a place where we all start looking. Even if field watches aren't your thing, you can't deny there are many examples that offer excellent value for money. For those of us who window shop the internet in a long process of considering the next purchase or review, Vaer is a brand that pops up often. One tries to remain willfully ignorant of how the advertising algorithms keep track of our browsing habits as consumers, but every once in a great while they show us something we actually might want to look at.

With over 20 types and variations of field style watch, Vaer has certainly left potential buyers with plenty of choice. Often a watchmaker will offer only three or four field watch choices with some key flaw that enthusiasts are quick to point out. In fact, all watches from any maker contain some small niggle to be found across most pieces as a matter of opinion. I’ll have to admit that I didn’t think much of this watch or the brand at first, as it seemed a little too simple in layout and design, even if it is Rolex Explorer-esque. But I found it grew on me.

The piece we are covering is the Vaer S3 Tradition 36mm quartz. Just after we acquired this piece, Vaer seems to have changed over the movement from Ameriquartz to a Japanese quartz movement, thus the reference to the USA on the dial is now only “10 ATM”.

CONSTRUCTION

Composed entirely of brushed, 316L stainless steel, this piece should certainly allow many years of use. The case sizing is more in the unisex realm at 36mm in diameter (excluding the crown), 43mm lug tip to lug tip, and a very unimposing 9mm thick (including the crystal). The case sides are horizontally brushed and not flat, but slightly bulbous, which gives it more of that early vintage field watch vibe. The lugs are fairly thin but plenty strong and they do mesh well with the rest of the case. Looking at the case from the side, the lug-to-lug shape also seems to have a similar profile to the Explorer.

Vaer has also made this piece more up to the task when it comes to water resistance. In fact, Vaer seems to keep most of their pieces at a minimum of 100 meters, being that “daily ocean use” is one of the criteria when they engineer a piece, as evidenced by their company mission statement. As an avid saltwater junky, I appreciate this mindset. You’ll find a screw-down case back and crown (also brushed), giving it that stated 100 meters (or 10 ATM) of water resistance.

The case back is simple, flat, and circularly brushed, with VAER prominently etched in the center. Making the rounds mid-way to the case back edge is etched: “Ameriquartz Mvmt, American Assembly, Sapphire Glass, 316L Steel, 10 ATM Water Resistant”. Six equidistant notches along the edge of the case back will make for easy battery changes.

The screw-down crown, though unguarded, is very well executed. At just over 5mm in diameter, the sizing is appropriate for the rest of the case. However, this crown is easy to manipulate with hefty texture and a smooth threading action. Setting the Ameriquartz movement is an absolute breeze, especially with no date function. The top of the crown also exhibits VAER etched upon circular brushing, same as the case back. If you’re used to setting and winding mechanical movements, you might find that the urge to wind the movement after you’ve unscrewed the crown is very real, even though it doesn’t hand wind. Strange how that happens.

I also found it refreshing that Vaer adhered to the required distinctions between “American-made” and American "assembled". Many consumer brands often tote that they are American made but if you look closely, you'll find components that are imported from overseas. Not so in the watch industry and certainly not so with Vaer. "American Assembly" is a simple, non-deceptive statement, whereby Vaer has told the consumer that the watch is assembled in the United States using various quality parts, some from overseas. Vaer also states that they source extensively from USA sources, so even though you MAY have some overseas components, Vaer has pledged to minimize that from a quality control standpoint. This piece goes one step further in stating on the dial that they've used a USA Movement (Ameriquartz) in this particular piece, which will be covered in more detail below.

The retail cost directly from Vaer for this piece is $159, but I have noticed Vaer has changed the dial text somewhat since we acquired this piece, since they switched this model to a Japanese quartz movement. Vaer also offers free shipping on any orders over $30. They have a USA-based customer support team, with a 2-year warranty across all pieces, which includes coverage language regarding water ingress, as long as the crown stays sealed when entering water. All together, you can just tell as a customer that you are going to have proper support from the brand should anything go wrong with your piece.

view the s3 tradition on the vaer website

MOVEMENT

As stated on the dial, this piece contains an Ameriquartz movement, produced by FTS USA. Specifically, the modest but reliable 6130 HT (high torque) 3-hand micro quartz movement. FTS specifies this Ameriquartz movement with one jewel, 32,768 Hz quartz frequency for 1 tick per second, and a 42 month battery life. The robust seconds hand torque of 5.5 µNm, also allows the seconds hand to land steadily and strong on each tick without wobble or vibration (ahem, Timex).

We watch collectors have found that more and more microbrands, especially those operating in the United States, have begun to utilize FTS’ products as they are built to excellent tolerances, rivaling ETA and Ronda quartz movements. FTS offers several quartz movement configurations, as well as solar quartz and chronograph movements. It will be interesting to see how FTS gets on with the incumbent competition in Switzerland over the next few years. After fitting this movement with a new battery, the Vaer example gets approximately +10 seconds per month. I always say “better slightly fast, than slow”.

CRYSTAL / BEZEL

The anti-reflective coating on this modestly domed sapphire crystal, though it seems to be heavily applied, can give off a rather distracting blue sheen that can mask the true color of the dial and obscure observation of the time. The low profile curvature of the crystal also catches the light and definitely exasperates this distraction. If anything, this crystal catches more light than it should. I believe if Vaer could apply a clear anti-reflective coating to the inside of a boxed or flattened crystal, it would fix all these issues and the dial would show through much more clearly. Not that it is a bad crystal, it simply just seems like the wrong choice.

The thin bezel is finished with circular brushing and meshes well with the horizontal brushing and shaping on the adjacent case. The bezel also has the slightest bit of polishing on the underside, which gives it just a slight visual border separating it as a lone component from the case below it. The width of the bezel edge also allows the dial to reach closer to the edges of the case, making it more legible for a watch that is only 36mm is diameter.

DIAL/HANDS/INDICES

Classic simplicity is the name of the game with this dial. With it’s 3/6/9 numeral configuration, I have to admit this piece put me on the Rolex Explorer mindset as I began eyeballing used pieces on Chrono24 for ~$5,000+. Luckily I’m able to practice good self-preservation and put those pieces in the “someday, maybe” category and move on with my life. It seems Vaer has subscribed well to the notion that less is more and the legibility is excellent as a result, when the crystal isn’t interfering. The dial is black, smooth, and well apportioned to the piece. Sitting just under the crystal, the wearer won’t need look down “into” the piece. Though the rehaut ring between the crystal and dial is polished, it is just thin enough that it doesn’t give off any flash, while diverting just enough ambient light toward the dial to accentuate the indices.

Speaking of which, all the markings and indices are printed in a vintage, cream-colored, matte finish which helps to complete the classic look and subtle design. On the outer edge of the dial you’ll find an unbroken half-track minute graduation. The 3, 6, and 9 positions are numbered, in the classic 1960’s Rolex Explorer font I might add. All the other hourly indices are marked in what could be described as arrowhead or flying-V markers, all pointing toward the center of the dial. The 12 o’clock arrow is slightly bigger than the others, but in the same gauge as the 3/6/9 numerals. Though nothing irregular really stands out at first about the minute marks. I did notice after a few weeks that there are small dot marks directly behind the 2, 4, 8, and 10 arrow hour positions. I’d have preferred they kept all the arrow hours as is, but that’s my opinion. VAER is simply printed in an unassuming font above the pinion. Below the pinion, you’ll find printed “10 ATM, AMERICAN ASSEMBLY, and USA MOVEMENT” in a font smaller than the branding.

The hour and minute hands are syringe style, of brushed steel and cream-color lume filled. The thickness and length is excellent and doesn’t overpower any other elements on the dial. Reading the time quickly is a breeze. The seconds hand is syringe style as well, but is painted white, with a small counter balance and a small amount of lume applied to the triangular end. Although the seconds hand doesn’t match the other hands, I didn’t find it too distracting. Sizing is good too, with the tip reaching almost to the minute tick marks.

Lume

Things get a little irregular when it comes to application of the lume. One would think since all the adornments to the dial are painted, that the lume would be uniform throughout, but this is not the case. All the hour marks are lumed, as are the 2/4/8/10 dots I mentioned before as well as the VAER branding in a C3 green. The hands, however, glow the same color but not nearly the same tone or strength. The information below the pinion and the minute track are not lumed.

So although the dial is simple and symmetrical in the day light, in the dark it seems that Vaer had given the dial up to two painting/finishing processes, with the hands being another luming process. After seeing the dial under lume a few times, it just seems that the whole aesthetic setup has passed through too many hands during manufacture, giving it some inconsistency. So this piece will give you the time when passing from light to dark environments, but is certainly not a “night table” piece since the lume only last about fifteen to twenty minutes.

STRAP

The model we obtained is fitted with a black, silicone rubber, 20mm buckle strap. This strap has a very grippy outer texture and a slight taper down to 18mm, with the buckle being 22mm wide. In keeping with the modest weight of the piece, this strap weighs almost nothing but is plenty thick and strong. Vaer branding is stamped amongst the top portion of the strap as well as embossed on the stainless steel buckle. You’ll find two strap keepers, on which the outer keeper has a peg-like fitting which fits into the rectangular hole on the end of the tongue. Twelve holes, set close together, also allows a finely tuned fit.

Though the strap type and size is a good choice to be paired with this piece, I found the surficial grip of the piece to be excessive and far too uncomfortable. Said grip on this strap also gathers dust and debris like nothing else will. The strap creates rub-spots on the wrist and the keepers are extremely difficult the manipulate into place, similar to when a piece of duct tape sticks to itself and needs to be discarded. Luckily the strap is fitted with integrated, quick-release pins, allowing you to change out the strap to something far more comfortable and simple. I found a two-piece canvas strap from Archer to be the easiest remedy for the supplied strap. Also with the watch being a steel case and black dial, your collection of spare 20mm straps are likely to contain a few good replacement candidates.

The Good

Classic, symmetrical dial layout
Good case materials will offer years of use
Better water resistance than comparable pieces
Excellent movement
All-day comfort
VAER participates in the 1% for the planet program, which allocates 1% of total revenue to protecting endangered wildlife and ecosystems.
Customer-oriented business model

The Bad

The silicone strap is too uncomfortable, but 20mm lug size allows infinite strap options
No date function may be a turn off for some buyers
Lume could be better…

view the s3 tradition on the vaer website