Seiko SNK361 Review - This Beautiful Rolex Alternative Is Just 2% of The Price
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If you're new to horology, you may think 'nice watches' are reserved for those willing to spend 4 or 5 figures. I don't blame you either.
Take the Rolex Oyster Perpetual, for instance. It's an incredibly versatile watch with a classic design and top-tier finishing. The type of watch that would look at home on almost any man's wrist. For one in decent used condition? You're currently talking upwards of £5000.
To some, this may be chump change. But to many of us, that's a lot to spend on anything, let alone a watch that might not see everyday use.
If the latter sounds familiar, then keep reading. You see, I've hunted down a watch that fills that void for just 2% of the price! It's not a replica or a 1-to-1 clone with a different brand name stamped on the dial.
Instead, it's got its own identity while sharing many of the properties that make the Oyster Perpetual so revered.
Meet the Seiko SNK361. You may recognize this one, as I've alluded to it in previous posts, but today, it will steal the spotlight. You see, this is one of my very favorite affordable watches, and I can't believe it's not seen significantly more coverage online.
I've seen a few outlets praising the similarly styled Seiko SNXS lineup, but this one seems to have flown under the radar until now; despite being a more compelling and well-rounded package. We'll briefly compare the two later, but let's see what my pick offers for starters.
Packaging
The watch arrived in typical budget Seiko packaging. It will protect the watch in transit, though it's not as elaborate as the boxes provided with luxury watches.
Upon opening the lid, the narrative changes. Undoubtedly, this SNK361 looks much more expensive than the $100 price tag would suggest. It's affiliate-linked throughout this article if you want to pick one up. Hopefully, Seiko doesn't discontinue this any time soon, as they have with other popular models.
Seiko 5 History
For those of you who are new to watch collecting, Seiko 5 is essentially Seiko's entry-level automatic series of wristwatches, which typically fulfill the 5 criteria that you can see below:
1. Diaflex (unbreakable mainspring)
2. Diashock (shock resistant)
3. Automatic winding
4. Day/date complication
5. Water-resistant
This range is often lauded as offering some of the best value for money and often look dramatically different from one another, with a near-infinite variety of shapes, sizes, and dials.
Case Style
Having tried numerous versions over the past couple of years, I think the 01V0 case used with the SNK361 is arguably the best-looking of all of them. Not only is there a close similarity to the Oyster Perpetual shape, with prominent shoulders and a high-shine bezel, but it also offers faceted flanks that house alternating brushed and polished sections. You won't find this on most other Seiko 5 cases, where the designs are typically more simplistic.
This is the first area where the 361 emerges ahead of its SNXS rivals in the quest to become the best budget Rolex alternative. The SNXS models have an inferior case style, named the 0480, with a basic glossy finish that looks notably less sophisticated, especially given the way it clashes with the brushed bracelet.
The 0V10 case, on the other hand, is not only more reminiscent of the original Oyster Perpetual from above but, crucially, has thicker and more curved sides that allow the watch to sit flusher. You're not left with the floating UFO look propagated by the rear bulge on the 0480 case, something that promptly turned me away from those models.
Surprisingly, even though the flanks of the case are thicker, the SNK361 itself is thinner overall than the SNXS series, with a 10.6mm thickness, accompanied by a 37mm diameter and a 41.8mm lug to lug size, combining to make the watch wear much like a 36mm Datejust. As such, this piece best suits those after a smaller watch with reduced wrist presence; vintage proportions, if you will.
Finishing
Compared to other watches on the market, the level of finishing here is adequate, though not fantastic. I've seen more precision in the Casio Edifice lineup, albeit those pieces have cheaper quartz movements, which frees up funds for other areas. Still, it's acceptable and is easily carried by the remarkable dial, which we'll examine shortly.
Watch Movement
To the rear, you get a glimpse of the automatic Seiko 7S26 movement that keeps this watch ticking.
While far from a horological game-changer, this entry-level mechanical offering still showcases more finesse than the basic circuitry in battery-charged modules. While this movement lacks hand-winding or hacking capabilities, it still makes for a suitable automatic for first-timers, especially at such an appealing price point.
Dial Design
The true unique selling point of this SNK361 is the dial. You've probably glimpsed it in the images so far, and holy moly, is this special for such an affordable watch. From the close-ups, you'll see the array of microscopic 'Seiko 5' crests inhabiting the entire black surface. I'm yet to see this level of detail matched at this price point.
Before receiving the watch, I had doubts about the attractiveness of this unusual texturing, given my indifference to the symbol itself. However, the execution ensures it's no gimmick, with the subtlety to remain hidden in most scenarios, only emerging when the lighting is just right. Even if you're not a fan of the emblem, this application undoubtedly gives a level of finesse comparable to some more expensive watches, serving as a fitting final hurrah for the outgoing Seiko 5 shield, which is in the process of being replaced by a more contemporary inked alternative.
If you're after something with more pop, the alternative colors, such as blue and white, retain the same miniature detailing, though I find black the most versatile.
Outside of that, other design elements clearly take inspiration from the likes of Rolex, including the near-identical baton handset and the simple, narrow second marks at the circumference. Here, it's worth pointing out that the SNXS series offers dials that better match those on an Oyster Perpetual, with none of the aforementioned texturing and a set of hour markers that bear a more striking resemblance.
Seiko Remodelling
If you aim to create the ultimate 'Seiko Perpetual,' you can effectively combine the two by transplanting the dial from the SNXS into this SNK case. Alessandro at Timed Square did just that, and the final result looks closer to that famous design.
That being said, that approach doesn't align with my objective. After all, you can buy affordable 'homages' that rip off the Rolex even more and have better specifications.
I prefer the stock SNK361, as it gets close enough to tap into the styling and elegance that makes the Oyster Perpetual lineup so popular, without selling itself short in an attempt to be a blatant carbon copy.
Final Thoughts
Obviously, this watch is not comparable in quality to a luxury watch, with only a Hardlex crystal and a rubbish 18mm bracelet that could do with being replaced as soon as possible. A couple of steel options are linked here for your convenience. Nevertheless, it looks fantastic and houses enough original flair to make it probably the classiest watch under $100 at the time of writing. Most of us can't afford a Rolex, but this Seiko does a top job of filling that niche for just two percent of the cost, and your friends will probably think you've spent much more on it.
Should this piece be discontinued, look out for the SNKL45, which is the same outside of the dial and handset. It's not as distinctive but is a looker in its own right.
