RZE Resolute Watch Review | This Microbrand Rings A Bell…
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Of all of the microbrands I've featured to date, Boldr has to be the best received by my readers. I covered their Venture field watch back in 2020 and was impressed with the specifications and compact performance, including a titanium case, high water resistance, and automatic movement.
Unfortunately, I'm yet to cover them since, primarily due to the lack of variety. As of the time of publishing, most of the Boldr collection still uses the same case design, with the primary differences simply being the movements and dials. While it's a decent case, I've been waiting for something more unique to justify a follow-up post, as I'd rather not waste your time repeating myself.
I may have found that follow-up from a different brand entirely. I say entirely, but there is a bit of a catch.
RZE, formerly Reise, is a microbrand founded by Travis Tan, one of the original co-founders of Boldr; as such, this new brand has more experience than first impressions would imply.
So, how does his second bite of the cherry stack up?
I didn't have to wait long to find out, as they'd already posted me a watch before making contact via email!
Price & Packaging
For a retail price of around $400, will this be a fan favorite like his previous project? Or will it receive similar condemnation to other up-and-comers I've recently annihilated? Let's take a look.
The watch arrived in a very long box housing a plush leatherette pouch. This model, called the Resolute, is their first release, though they've subsequently gone on to release a couple more.
Update: The RZE Resolute has since been re-released with some minor changes.
Case Design
The Boldr DNA is on full show here, with a comparable list of specifications, starting with the titanium case.
While a similar color to the Venture, this one takes a far different approach, with a multi-faceted angular profile that creates a much more aggressive look. It retains a more standard 3-o'clock position threaded crown and a screwed rear for reliable water performance. 100m is the advertised resistance here, which isn't as high as that on the Boldr, though it is sufficient for most users and isn't of major concern.
The whole case is brushed, so it isn't particularly complex; however, it has been completed to a good standard, with precise edges and a mattified layer that helps it look consistently good even in poor lighting conditions. This proprietary 'ULTRAhex' coating performs well against scratches, better than standard titanium and trading blows with Citizen's famed super titanium. The 1200 Vickers hardness rating actually puts the Resolute slightly above the reported 1000 rating of the latter, though the difference between the two will be near-indistinguishable for most people.
Dimensions
Nevertheless, the proportions here are more wearable than most Citizens, with a 46.6mm lug to lug, a thickness of 11.6, and a width of around 40mm, depending on where you measure. Like the Casio lineage, you'll notice that there are bulges on each side to bulk up the watch a bit, but despite that, this isn't a large watch and is better suited to average and small wrist sizes.
Thanks to the material's inherent properties, this watch is exceptionally comfortable. At 90 grams in this configuration, you can barely feel it on the wrist, and it doesn't shift around much during usage, which is a boon.
Watch Bracelet
A point of contention for me is the bracelet. This can be had for around $100 extra when purchasing the watch or bought individually. While the quality is good, I do have a couple of bugbears. Primarily, I don't think it integrates particularly well with the case. While I wouldn't expect a seamless transition at this price point, the bracelet links appear to be a slightly different tone of grey in natural light, though the clasp does match properly. Travis told me via email that it's hard to get consistent colors on the case and bracelet with this coating, so perhaps this is the closest they can reasonably get? The end links don't sit flush with the case either, which is a shame. Also, while the double foldover mechanism is very secure, it is pretty stiff and isn't the friendliest to your fingernails during operation.
They didn't cut corners elsewhere, as it does have solid links throughout, along with a milled clasp and plentiful micro-adjustment holes for the perfect fit. I also enjoy the taper down to 16mm, which prevents it from feeling clunky on the wrist.
Overall, I'm split on whether or not it's worth saving the money and opting for a fabric strap instead. Whichever route you take, you'll be glad to know that neither pass beneath the case, which was a major frustration with the already chunky Boldr, and the lugs are drilled, allowing for easy changes.
Crystal
Atop this RZE sits a sapphire crystal that boasts a very effective 'super' anti-reflective coating. True to the name, this performs noticeably better than the crystal in the more expensive Casio Oceanus that I recently reviewed, allowing for better visuals, which is ever-more important on a monochrome watch like this one.
Dial Design
Indeed, the grey version they sent me isn't the most flashy, with a muted grey color scheme that houses a highly textured fume dial, which graduates to a darker tone towards the circumference. It's somewhat akin to a rockface and looks more attractive than the likes of the Venture, which was fairly basic. This added depth extends to the markers and date window. The latter, in particular, is very well considered, with a grey wheel and surround that look right at home with the matching dial and chapter ring.
The Resolute was formerly available in green, blue, and red though only black and white appear to remain as purchasable alternatives. (Once more, the re-release of this watch offers additional colors).
While I like the applied indices and the strong luminescence they bring to the table, their slimness will always pose a risk to the quality control of the piece - it being more challenging to align thin sticks versus more forgiving wider shapes. Unfortunately, that issue has reared its head here, as three markers are misaligned, including the most prominent double index at 12-o'clock. They're not miles off, but if I'd bought this, I'd try and exchange this for a different unit to see if I had better luck.
Aside from that, they have a pleasing off-white tinge that contrasts nicely with the pure white dots just outside of them, and the two-tone sticks used at each 90-degree interval help prevent them from looking generic.
If you took one of the markers and stretched it out, you'd have the handset. These baton hands are run of the mill, as is the second hand that bobs around the perimeter.
The absence of text here is pleasing, with some limited wording below the center, presented in an inoffensive squared font that suits the blocky aesthetic.
Logo
Given the bold profile, I think the logo icon could benefit from being in 3D or at least two-tone like that seen on their website to add an extra dimension and display itself more confidently. It's not often you see a wristwatch logo height exceed its width, and at present, it looks a little like the unusual London 2012 Olympics logo when used in isolation. I reckon the full version of their logo would likely be a more tasteful alternative.
Movement
The RZE is powered by the tremendously popular Seiko NH35A automatic movement, which operates at the usual 21,600 beats per hour. This means it will be easy to service and maintain but won't be the smoothest sweeping hand on the market.
Final Thoughts
While I like the watch, it lacks a unique kick-ass component that makes me want to reach for it over other options in my collection.
A new version of the Resolute was released in mid-March, following the publishing of this video. Perhaps that one will do a better job of stimulating my senses.
