(This page features affiliate links, for more information, click here.)

This is the new Orient Mako III, and it's had one of the most confusing releases ever. The previous generation Ray II and Mako II models launched in 2016, and they were decent divers that competed with the Seiko SKX line in terms of specs but failed to achieve the same cult-classic status. In recent years, Orient fans have hoped for a refresh to help their favorite watchmaker topple the competition.

Fortunately, Orient kind of delivered from 2019 onward, firing out numerous dive-style models to meet demand. While the vintage reissues were clearly not Mako replacements, the identity of the other models wasn't so clear. Some of these kind of look like the Mako, and some had near-identical specs too. But, Orient never clarified if any were actually "Mako" watches, instead granting them all the catchy name 'Diver Design Model' in their press releases.

Understandably, many reviewers guessed or speculated that one of these must be the new Mako III, given the vague naming scheme and the constant rumors. Admittedly, "Orient Diver Design Model AA08 Review" doesn't have the quite the same ring to it.

In February, Orient finally broke their silence and announced the actual Mako III. Thanks to Tom at TUS watches for giving me the heads up, as like all of you reading, I missed the single Instagram post that Orient made revealing this watch. Even in their press release, the watch isn't referred to as the Mako III, but it is mentioned as being part of the Mako series, which is good enough for me.

Naming shenanigans aside, how does this stack up versus the previous gen Mako II and the plethora of other recent Orient divers? Well, I've got not only the Mako III, but I've already tried the Ray II, Kamasu, and Kano, so I can give you some pointers. At the end of this post, I'll also be comparing this to one of the new Seiko 5 divers and giving it a value rating out of 10, so stick around to see how well it scores.

All watches I'm mentioning are affiliate linked, and big thanks to TUS watches for providing the Mako III review sample. The other watches were obtained or purchased elsewhere for previous content.

Watch Design

Ok, so, the packaging is nothing new, but I was genuinely shocked by how much better this watch looked straight out of the box. Now, while the Mako II and Ray II were decent low-cost dive watches, I wouldn't say they were massive lookers. The Mako II, in particular, looks quite dated by modern standards, and both models were pretty generic with no eye-catching colors or design cues.

This new model, though…I wish I'd remembered to turn my mic on when unboxing. The words that came out of my mouth were "this is FIT!". I like Orient watches; they are great value, some of them already look decent, but this is the first one I've seen that I think truly looks sexy. Orient is now a sexy watch brand! This is the first Orient I've seen that I think would undoubtedly upgrade your style and I truly hope this comes across properly on camera. If you're not convinced, I'd urge you to try and see one of these in the flesh as this version at least is absolutely stunning.

There are a few things they've done here that clearly result in such a huge visual upgrade over the Mako II. Firstly, they've obviously introduced a radical new colour. You wouldn't have found a burnt orange like this on previous-gen Orient offerings, and man am I glad they've tried it. I've seen all the new Seiko 5s in the windows of jewelers; they've got all sorts of whacky stuff in there these days, especially with all the extreme collab pieces. The orange Orient has gone for here might not be the brightest, but in combination with the bezel, the whole thing is looks very classy.

Bezel

In fact, that bezel is quite different this time around. Those on the old Mako and Ray were very angular, which contributed to the overall thickness and made them look a tiny bit stubby. That fitted to the Mako III has the same flat, Seiko-style profile that we saw on the Kamasu, and looks a fair amount sleeker as a result. It also marginally reduces the thickness of the watch, which never hurts. Perhaps the most impressive part is the aesthetic, though.

Unlike previous collections, where the bezel simply matched the dial color, Orient has implemented a carefully selected two-tone design across the Mako III lineup, which looks killer. For this orange-red option, the tone of the dial sits halfway between the two colors used on the bezel, resulting in a pleasing three-stage arrangement. I think my favorite is the lighter bronze/coffee section that occupies ¾ of it, which I've never seen on a watch before. That part alone makes the watch look far more high-end from a distance and gives this diver some unexpected elegance. I've seen footage of the other colors too, and I have to say, whoever picked them, you've really done a stellar job. These all look far more attractive and interesting than the previous gen models, which were a bit vanilla. (As they should, considering the price.)

Check out the colour variants here:

Unfortunately, I don't think the bezel action is quite as good as before, here, there's far more recoil and a less satisfying noise, though I doubt any of you take diving seriously enough to use this feature properly.

Dimensions

While the visuals are pretty unique on the surface, in many ways, this watch is almost a reskin of the Kamasu I mentioned earlier. Not only is the bezel the same shape but the overall sizing is identical too, at 41.8mm in diameter, a thickness of 12.9mm, and a lug-to-lug of 46.5mm. The shape and finishing of the case are virtually the same too, though perhaps the brushing is a tad neater here than on it's predecessor. That could just be my old garbage cameras though!

As a result of this case cloning, any replacement Kamasu bracelets will apparently also fit on the Mako III as well.

On wrist, the watch certainly wears smaller than that the diameter indicated, partly because of the short lug-to-lug but also because of the flexible female end links, which allow this to accommodate small wrists just as well as large ones. I'd say this wears more like a typical 39.5 or 40mm watch, and it certainly feels smaller than the chunky new Seiko 5s, which I'll get to shortly.

One minor upgrade versus previous Orient divers is the crown, which is fractionally larger and much grippier. You still get the same 20-bar water resistance rating and an identical screwed rear. Under the hood is the familiar F6922 automatic, which you'll find in several other day-date Orient models. My unit clocked in with an accuracy of -6 seconds per day.

Bracelet

The bracelet is also really similar to the Kamasu and it's more than sufficient for this fairly affordable watch, with solid steel links, except for the end links and it even comes with a foldover clasp that houses a generous four micro-adjustment holes. Unlike some other watches I've covered recently, you will probably find a good fit with the Mako III. If I had to be picky, I think this bracelet could do with more of a taper to it, as in its current state, it's pretty chunky considering the size of the watch.

Now, I don't have hands-on experience with a bracelet-fitted previous-gen Mako or Ray, mine came fitted with a rubber strap. That said, after watching some videos, this looks like a mild step-up in finishing and build quality, primarily the clasp.

check out the mako III (red) on tus watches

Watch Crystal

Another upgrade versus last-gen is the crystal. Here, it's not mineral or some gimmicky hardened mineral glass, it is sapphire, just like the Kamasu. This is more scratch resistant than the glass fitted to the old Mako or Ray models, as well as the relatively new Kano, which surprisingly only houses a mineral crystal too. Sapphire is a nice improvement, though it's coating – if it has any – could do with a bit of work as it's not the clearest, and it doesn't handle reflections as well as the rival Seiko SRPD.

Orient vs Seiko

In fact, let's talk a little about that. If you're in the market for an affordable diver, you may well be choosing between this and those new Seiko 5 divers that look like the discontinued SKX series. I definitely think Orient has taken some inspiration from Seiko in the way they have revived this model with minor modern design twists and exuberant colorways. However, there are still some differences to consider.

Firstly, the wear experience varies a little, despite the similar on-paper proportions. The Seiko is definitely a more bulbous diver and has a much sportier look. This new Orient is slightly more muted and feels like it takes a step towards the dressier end of the spectrum, which is echoed by the more contoured case shape and reduced thickness. Out of these two, the Orient feels considerably smaller, though the newer 38mm version of the Seiko may be a better option still for thinner arms.

In tune with the more playful appearance, the Seiko SRPD is essentially a dive-style watch. While the 100m of water resistance is more than serviceable for most scenarios, if you're after a watch you can submerge time and time again, you'll probably want to go with the better-equipped Mako III, which offers double that.

In terms of fit and finish, both are about the same, with no perceivable difference between the two. Similar can be said about the movement. They've both got the same mediocre beat rate, and these two units have comparable accuracy, though I will say the Seiko has a quieter rotor.

In terms of lume disappointingly, the Mako III is no better than the II, meaning the Seiko comfortably has it beaten in low light. But, the Seiko falls short in the crystal department. Despite costing more than the SKX it replaced, it still uses the same hardlex mineral crystal, which is far more scratch-prone than the sapphire on the Orient Mako III.

Like with the new SKX replacement, this new Mako replacement has received a price bump from Orient. These are selling for just under £250 on TUS watches, or around $310 USD. Here that's a similar cost to the Seiko, which itself varies wildly in price depending on which version you go for. This is slightly more than all the Orient divers I mentioned earlier, and £100 more than the previous gen Mako 2.

Of course, for authorized dealers, it's Orient who essentially dictates the price bracket for these watches. Now, some of these price rises are probably caused by inflation.

Final Thoughts

Is this a much better-looking watch than the Mako II? Yes, it is much nicer in person. Are the slight changes worth a 68% price increase? Personally, I'm not entirely convinced.

As such, I'm giving this a value rating of 7.5/10. It's reasonable in isolation, and it's not often you can get a watch that looks this nice at this price, but other Orients offer similar specs and designs for less money. If this were, say, £199, where I would love it to be, it would undoubtedly be scoring higher.

I've also decided we should give these watches a pure style rating, too. Like, how sexy is the watch purely from a visual standpoint? I'm giving this orange one specifically an 8.6 for style; I never expected Orient to make a diver that looks this good!

check out the Mako III (red) on Tus watches