Braun AW50 Review | The Hidden Price of Minimalism?
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Back in 2019, I vented my anger online, as yet another Braun watch showcased poor misalignment issues. Not only did both of the previous watches tick between the markers, but one of them also had an inherently flawed bracelet design that ensured it would fit nobody but giants.
During the research for that content, I discovered that not all Braun watches are made equal…or made in the same place at least. While many of the cheaper models are made in China, with questionable levels of quality control; it turns out that some of their more iconic models are still made in Germany.
Therefore, I figured I’d give this company a second chance. I headed online, picked out the one that took my fancy. Amazon covered the cost of the watch for review, so thanks to them.
After checking out, I thought I’d take a quick look at the watch online, to see if it looked so good in person. I was amazed to discover not a single review of this AW50 in the English language. This surprised me given the prevalence of this watch in the comments on my channel.
Why has nobody reviewed this watch? It’s been around for 30 years and is from a well-known brand so…what’s the catch?
Well, the watch is here, I’ve been wearing it over the last couple of weeks. Let’s find out together.
Watch Packaging
It arrived in typical minimalist Braun packaging, with tiny branding and a surprisingly robust plastic case. This leaves a better first impression than the previous boxes but the packaging is still low on my list of importance when judging wristwatches.
Dimensions
Last time, the first thing I noticed was the misaligned second hand. Luckily there wasn’t a repeat here, as this model doesn’t have one. Instead, I noticed the smaller profile of the watch compared to its brethren. This one is a unisex model and comes in with a mere 6.6mm thickness, 33.8mm diameter and 44.3mm lug to lug. As you might have guessed, this means they’re best suited to smaller wrists or those looking for an undersized and understated look.
Visually, this really suits my skinny 6.25-inch wrist and it sits very discreetly due to its flat profile. When combined with the angled lugs, it makes for a watch that slips under sleeves very easily. This could easily have looked cartoonishly tiny, but I think the extended boxy lugs do make this more wearable than you might think in a modern environment.
Production
So, for around £170, what improvements are we getting? After all, this is significantly more than the previous models I looked at. Well, the first and most obvious change is printed right there on the dial. Indeed, these AW models are still made in Germany, or should I say are made there once more. These are effectively reissues which hit the market in 2017, following a decade of non-European watch production, during which time these analogue models disappeared from the market.
With European production comes European labour costs and consequently lower specs per unit of currency – a theme we’ll touch on later. This effectively removes the possibility of stereotypical sweatshop labour, which is a controversial topic when discussing watches made in certain Far East regions. As a consumer, I’ve found you can generally expect higher levels of quality control from German factories, versus others from the likes of China; where it’s more hit and miss depending on the brand.
Watch Movement
While it says made in Germany, I’d say that’s a bit of a stretch; the heart of the watch is a Swiss Ronda 714 quartz movement. While this is a reasonable movement, anyone with a basic knowledge of geography will know it’s not German-made. I’m assuming the rest of the watch is assembled and made in Germany, just be aware that the claim is at least stretching the truth.
Construction
Overall, the stainless steel construction here does feel better than that on the Chinese-made models and in the hands, it feels lightweight yet not cheap. You’ll notice we have a matte finish throughout, which perfectly matches the tone and texture of the dial. This gives the watch a very mechanical and urban look which has grown on me. I find matte watches to be among the most adaptable out there and the design of this watch really takes that to the extreme. The simple shape and clean lines, paired with the diminutive sizing and plain colourway make this probably the most versatile and unobtrusive watch I’ve encountered. You could easily wear this casually or for the most formal events and nobody would bat an eyelid.
Water Resistance
The only situation where you may encounter an issue is in the pool. With the snapback case and basic gasket, the AW50 only offers a measly 3bar water resistance, rendering it splashproof at most and certainly not submergeable. I will say, it did take a fair amount of force to remove and reseat the case rear, but even so, I wouldn’t be taking this one swimming any time soon.
Design
When designing these watches, Braun’s designer Dieter Rams supposedly utilised his 10 principles of good design, which are listed below:
Good design is innovative
Good design makes a product useful
Good design is aesthetic
Good design makes a product understandable
Good design is unobtrusive
Good design is honest
Good design is long lasting
Good design is thorough down to the last detail
Good design is environmentally friendly
Good design is as little design as possible
Some of these principles are evident in this AW50, while others aren’t.
This watch was initially released as a follow-up to the popular AW10 watch and they took the minimalist design even further, utilising the principle that good design is as little design as possible. That’s apparent here, as the Arabics are gone, as are the second hand and minute track. This gives a very clean look that could be construed as boring to some people. Surprisingly, it does take a lot of thought and planning to nail the Bauhaus aesthetic, as can be seen by the poor execution of many fashion watches such as MVMT; which are equally simple, but look much, much worse in person. The fact that this piece was designed over a quarter of a century ago is a testament to how long-lasting good design can be. It still looks very modern and unlike alternative brands, this piece even looks unique and attractive from the side.
When you look closer, you’ll notice the date window is faceted and there’s a red chevron to aid visibility, but other than that, the dial doesn’t exude the sense of quality that you might expect when spending this much money on a wristwatch. The hands, while very legible, do look cheap and everything is just inked onto the surface. Additionally, one of the design principles mentioned before involved ‘making the product more useful’, however, this watch features no luminescence, meaning it’s completely useless in the dark. That, paired with the lack of water resistance highlights that these principles are likely somewhat of a gimmick when applied to wristwatches.
That being said, some thought has clearly gone into other areas of the watch. The case feels durable and the crown is very grippy despite the small size. Furthermore, the watch is very comfortable; aided by the decent 18mm black leather strap. This is very flexible and doesn’t crease very easily, though doesn’t feature any sort of quick-release system. In the long run, I have a gut feeling that you may suffer from the bottom layer of the strap peeling away, though that remains to be seen.
Watch Glass
Across the dial, Braun has gone with a basic flat mineral crystal, which is flush to the bezel. I think most of us would have preferred a piece of sapphire here, especially given the high retail price for a quartz watch.
Final Thoughts
In that same vein, I think this is a better watch than the Chinese Braun offerings, but however good the design is, I couldn’t justify spending £170 out of my own pocket for one of these. If this were like £75, maybe £100 given the German assembly, it could be more recommendable as a fashion watch alternative. Unfortunately, when you’re talking double that price, I’m unsure how far the nostalgic design and brand name can carry it. True, the looks of a watch are likely the most important thing as a watch collector, we’ve seen proof of that with the poorly specced Q-Timex models (review of that watch here) that have seen great popularity nonetheless.
It’s not a bad watch, just an expensive one on a material level, though it will probably look good in another 10 or 15 years if that matters to you.
Why has nobody covered this watch before then? Well, I think it’s because there’s just not that much exciting going on with Braun watches. When was the last time they released a fresh original model? When was the last time that they made anything innovative, as the first design principle suggests? I can’t even remember and that’s your answer.
