Are Vaer Watches Any Good? A Full Analysis of Vaer's Top Releases!
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Things have changed a lot since I started this blog in 2019. Back then, I was mostly excited by the famous, big-brand watches that dominated the lower-cost segment. They generally had the best designs, a string of low-cost, historically significant models, and arguably offered the best value for money overall.
These days, though, I often end up favoring watches released by smaller brands.
While the big boys have been shifting upmarket, chasing trends, and relaunching older models (to varying levels of success) these newer companies have been progressing at an astonishing rate.
For years, component quality hasn’t really been the issue. Loads of companies can make a solid-feeling watch with all the basic specs you’d expect at a given price. The challenge has been making one that looks good enough to compete with or beat the industry giants.
Most microbrands I’ve observed in my inbox over the last half-decade have either been uninspiring or straight-up unappealing from a visual standpoint, giving me little reason to pick them over the more established brands.
But the tide has definitely started to turn. In the last two years, in particular, a number of these smaller companies have begun figuring that part out, too, with final results that, in many cases, trounce the historical market leaders.
Vaer Watch Review
I can’t think of a more fitting brand to illustrate this than Vaer.
Based out of Venice Beach, Los Angeles, Vaer first contacted me way back in 2019. I’m going to be honest: I wasn’t super interested at the time.
The watches were well made and were even US-assembled, but the designs...they didn’t get my juices flowing. Their initial offerings had a rudimentary, concept-like appearance that looked a couple of stages away from a finished product. So, I had to pass.
Not long after, I briefly looked at one of their watches, the C3 Tradition. A marked improvement visually, with a very slim case; it was decent, but I didn’t love it.
Fast forward to February 2024, and they email me again about their most recent releases, and wow, what a difference a few years makes. Now, some of their older designs were and still are in production, but nearly every new watch in this email looked like an absolute banger. In fact, they were nearly unrecognizable as being from the same company. Out of nowhere, Vaer was back on my radar.
I initially planned to cover them on my unboxing channel, which I created for this exact purpose. You see, I love covering these inventive, smaller brands, however, such videos almost never perform well view-wise, meaning we often make a loss on our highly-produced Ben’s Watch Club videos and blog posts, which, as you can guess, isn’t very sustainable from a business perspective! So, I created ‘In The Loupe’ as a means of covering these lesser-known brands, as well as the latest releases, in some capacity without having the same time or monetary constraints as a fully-produced review.
That said, once I unboxed these and saw them in the flesh, I felt guilty. I felt guilty because these watches were awesome, and I wasn’t planning to give them the full treatment.
As you can guess, given this post exists, I caved. I feel it’s my responsibility to make you aware of the best watches.
Left to Right: D5 Pacific Dive Watch and R1 Racing Chronograph
This review will primarily focus on the initial two pieces they sent over, the D5 Pacific dive watch, and the R1 chronograph. However, I’ll also touch on some models we received more recently, which are likely heading to our blog writers. This does mean I’ve tried a wide range of Vaer watches, all powered by different movements, so I can hopefully give you a pretty thorough analysis. I’ll run you through the pros, cons, and everything in between.
Vaer D5 Pacific Watch Review
First up is the watch that started this love affair, the D5 Pacific. I’ve had a look through my back-catalogue, and this has to be the most distinctive and unique diver I’ve covered on Ben’s Watch Club, ever.
I don’t just say that because of the color scheme, either! Indeed, this green version, the ‘Anacapa’ may as well be the official Ben’s Watch Club watch, with a color scheme that’s near-identical to our branding. So yeah, I’m biased here. I love this palette, and it’s rare to find it on any watch these days!
While our branding is Art-Deco inspired, these colors seem to equally suit the more playful, tropical approach taken by Vaer with the D5. Overall, I think it looks phenomenal, and this rare combination provides a surprisingly luxurious, exclusive feel that I’m yet to find on a big-brand watch at this price. This watch also comes in two other equally punchy colorways (pink/blue and red/blue).
In a bizarre turn of events, I almost went with the Malibu, whose eccentric tones are a far cry from the safety of my wardrobe. That could be the sexiest take on the recent playful watch trend that I’ve seen, and had the green not existed; I’d have been just as excited to try it. Honestly, I might just buy that one at some point. There’s also the bright yet more conventional Rincon, whose red-blue setup doesn’t exactly look bad either!
Dial Design
What really sells this design for me is the depth and complexity of the dial. It’s got this unique three-tier setup, with a recessed channel sandwiched between a flat central portion and an elaborate checkered chapter ring. The markers are like tiny bridges, each spanning this gap and casting a shadow on the cavity beneath.
Those indexes are also unlike most others. Well, on the watch I received, anyway. Rather than the ever-present silver strips topped or embedded with lume, these markers present themselves like solid, tall blocks of lume, which give the D5 even more character from tight angles.
This is where I stumbled upon an inconsistency. You see, the online imagery shows this model as having more traditional silver-bordered markers. I asked the brand which version is currently shipping; it turns out I’d accidentally received an early concept version and that the retail version ships with the more standard markers depicted in the product shots.
It doesn’t massively change the look of the watch, but I have to say, I prefer the border-free version, with its quirky, yet extra clean styling, so it’s a shame it’s been dropped. Marker discrepancy aside, that’s still the main theme with the D5 Pacific. There’s a lot going on, with an impressive amount of depth, yet they’ve managed to avoid the sense of clutter and excess that often comes with these more elaborate, experimental designs.
The amount, size, and placement of the typefaces used are near-perfect across the board. The handset, while basic, feels like the perfect choice, and even the date wheel sits in an aesthetic central position. Topping all this off is an elegant, slim sapphire bezel, which has a gorgeous gleam and a matching two-tone color scheme, providing an additional premium touch. It also has an extremely fine coin-edged rim, which does a better job of preserving some of those dressier hints versus the more rugged bezels fitted to other models in the D5 range.
This model is named after the Channel Islands National Park, off the California coast, and I’d say the luscious detailing of the D5 does a phenomenal job of echoing this natural beauty.
Crystal & Build Quality
Straddling the bezel is a double-domed sapphire crystal with a competent anti-reflective coating. This is the best material for the money, though I’d be interested to see what a flat crystal model would look like, as I think it could still work well.
The crown is perhaps the only bit I would alter. It functions with no complaints; it’s very grippy, though it’s perhaps a little on the large side for my taste.
Quite frankly, the build quality between this and an entry-level big brand diver isn’t even close. The case offers up a beautifully contoured shape, adorned with sharply twisted, Omega-like lugs and thick, polished chamfers. The remaining surfaces are delicately brushed, including the case rear.
Overall, it looks awesome from just about any angle, and the claw-like lugs also aid with fit as well as finish, giving the D5 a flush on-wrist position that leaves no unnecessary gaps.
D5 Dimensions
It’s also got widely accessible dimensions, including a 40.1mm case width, 39mm bezel, 46mm lug to lug and an 11.5mm case thickness, which ends up as 14mm when including the crystal. On the site, is says it has a 39mm diameter, though my calipers read 40.1mm.
While I’d say it fits a tad smaller than the diameter suggests, sadly, it’s verging on too big for my skinny arm, which is a shame, as I otherwise love this design. I’m jealous of you who can rock this.
Bracelet
It’s even more gutting as the bracelet is decent, too. It’s got plenty of room for adjustment, even for thin wrists like mine, which is aided by the NodeX branded clasp that shipped with this piece. Like some other quick-adjust systems, you can use the rear-mounted button to activate a hidden slide-rail to make fine alterations to the fit. As a whole, this works very well. The only drawbacks I’ve noticed (versus similar alternatives) are that the rail feels a little wobbly when fully extended, and it doesn’t permit quite the same level of precision as other clasps, whose slots are positioned closer together. Additionally, one of the clasp buttons has a tendency to stick from time to time, indicating looser-than-ideal tolerances.
Despite this, it’s still a darn sight better than what you get on most watches, which can be much more finicky, so I can overlook its shortcomings for the most part. The rest of the bracelet is very good. It does have a rather plain brushed finish, but it does have solid steel links throughout, as well as quick-release tabs if you want to switch it out.
They provided this watch with other straps, too, though it seems a shame to forego the aforementioned fancy clasp.
The D5 offers an advertised 20 ATM water resistance rating, partly aided by the threaded crown and case back, which is what you’d expect from a dive watch like this.
Movement
Through the sapphire-equipped exhibition window, you also get a glimpse of the ubiquitous Miyota 9015 automatic movement. It’s pretty accurate, fairly smooth, and slightly quieter than the cheaper Miyota 8000 series movements. While it can be obtained for substantially less elsewhere, and while I don’t love it, the 9015 has no glaring weaknesses. It’s still used by many competitors at this price, so its usage here is understandable. Vaer advertises -5 to +15 seconds a day for this one.
All of these Vaer watches have fantastic low-light performance, as you can see here. It turns out the lume-like markers on the D5 weren’t just for show. They’re bright, last ages, and even the bezel has a nice pop to it.
Final Thoughts
The whole package holds up very well under macro examination. Overall, it’s one of the most original watches I’ve seen. If I had to give a ‘Watch of the Year’ award, the D5 would definitely get a nomination. If they made this in 37mm, I’d probably be wearing it all day, every day!
Now, the D5 Pacific isn’t cheap. From a price of around $649, it’s toward the upper end of what I cover here on Ben’s Watch Club, but it absolutely has the special sauce that many brands seem to be missing and consequently chasing. You can see and feel the wiseness with which that cash has been spent with the D5 Pacific; it feels like you truly have something exclusive on your wrist. I, for one, feel it more than earns that price tag.
If you’re more budget-conscious or would prefer a different size, there are alternative versions of this watch available. The DS5 is a stripped-back version of the D5, which is available for nearly half the cost. You can grab that one in 38mm or 42mm, and it has a comparable aesthetic. It does have some compromises, though it seems like a good value pick. Alternatively, there’s a string of other automatic divers with similar specs and performance, though none have drawn me in in the same way as the Pacific trio.
Now, what else do we have on the table?
Vaer R1 Racing Chronograph Review
You’re probably keen to learn what this funny-looking thing is. This is the R1 Racing Chronograph; a barrel-shaped 38mm watch with 60s and 70s design cues. There are very few of these tonneau-like watches that I think look good. Very, very few. This is one of them.
Unlike most I’ve seen, it’s not overly bulbous and cartoonishly thick. Sure, it has a big boxed crystal, which is again sapphire, but as a whole, it’s still relatively slim and maintains some lug curvature, allowing it to slip under the odd sleeve or two.
Case
The case finishing is just as good as the D5, with a radial brushing effect on the upper area and some very shiny, liquid-like polished portions. It’s not the most attractive case in the world; I don’t find any of these cushion-case watches particularly enticing, but it’s absolutely one of the most palatable versions that I’ve seen to date.
The size partially helps with that. It comes in either a retro 38mm fit, like this one, or a larger 42mm case if you want something more substantial. The 38mm wears nicely, even on my small wrist, though I’d say it feels more like a 39mm, just due to the chunky lug setup.
Dial Design
As with the last model, the real kicker is the dial. Again, there’s a great amount of depth here, with texture-rich embedded subdials each with an angled and independently colored surround that makes them look like they’re sitting even deeper. The rest of the setup is more predictable. It’s got bright automotive colors, minimal text, and high-contrast visuals that give good legibility.
Movement
This chronograph is a fair amount cheaper than the previous dive watch, partly down to the movement choice. In here is the Seiko VK-63 mecha-quartz, which is widely used in these lower-cost chronographs for several reasons. It has more tactile pushers, a faster reset time, and a smoother sweep than most quartz chronographs. There isn’t much else out there in terms of mechanical chronograph movements at this end of the market, outside of some very loud Sea-Gulls, so while it’s nothing special, that’s more from a lack of choice than anything else.
The water resistance is at least good. 10 ATM with a screw back and screw-down crown is again more than serviceable for most people, and while there’s no transparent rear (given the VK-63 isn’t exactly a looker), it at least has a nicely engraved wavy pattern, alluding to the brand’s surfer roots.
Strap
Straps absolutely change the way this watch looks. While it shipped with a high-quality tan nylon band, it looks far sexier when paired with black leather; whether that’s the optional extra Horween strap offered by Vaer or a third-party one you may already have. You get a far moodier biker vibe that better matches the tone of the R1.
Final Thoughts
It feels solid, it’s comfortable on the wrist, it looks very cool and unique, and it’s much more original than the sea of weirdly-named luxury watch clones on AliExpress; that’s about all I can ask of a budget chronograph!
Is it a little expensive? Sure, I think this would be better priced at $299, ideally, though perhaps that’s not viable given the US Assembly.
Vaer Field Watch Review
Vaer first appeared in my mentions with their string of popular field watch designs. While they have a massive range at present, they’ve most recently sent me some new quartz and solar-quartz powered watches to take a look at in time for this review’s release.
First up are a pair of Dirty Dozen-themed watches, the C3 and C5. They’re essentially the same, just the former is 36mm and the latter is 40mm. While I won’t explore it here, the dirty dozen were military watches produced for the British military during the Second World War, produced by 12 different Swiss watchmakers. They all share a similar design because they were made to the same Ministry of Defence specifications. Vaer, as a much younger brand, obviously isn’t on that list; in fact, many of these brands are no longer in business or have stopped production of these models entirely, making them a popular source of inspiration for modern, upcoming brands.
Movement & Crystal
While these certainly lack the distinctive visual characteristics of the previous two watches, the Vaer Dirty Dozens each boast USA-built quartz movements, a rarity in the watch industry these days. As a brand, Vaer seems to be focused on preserving and continuing some elements of the American watchmaking industry, which I think is tippable.
Given that the design is widely used, I think these may be a trickier sell to many of you out there. As I’ve shown before on this blog, you can get watches that look very similar for a lot less and with comparable specifications. This version has pros and cons over some of those.
Considering the military, function-driven theming, I think the crystal could be clearer. This domed sapphire on these is pretty reflective, with a noticeable blue hue that impacts visibility to a substantial degree. Additionally, the dial itself isn’t quite pure black; it’s more like a really deep grey, which looks a touch pasty. I have to say, I prefer the heavily textured or silky black enamel dials offered by some other brands.
Case
Nevertheless, it does have some pleasing advantages, the most obvious of which is the case. While a little tame from the side, from above, the C3 and C5 have a gorgeous silhouette, the centerpiece of which being the super slender lugs, which are some of the thinnest I’ve seen on a watch. They feature a tiny chamfered edge, which provides a delicate, glistening outline effect as you rotate the watch. Of course, I’ve tried plenty of watches with chamfers before, but there’s definitely a unique effect caused by these particularly thin polished strips. In essence, the case looks much better than most watches of this style.
These also have an attractive fully-white syringe handset, which looks very clean, as well as luminescence that blows away most rival offerings.
Straps
Both of these also shipped with very durable rubber straps, fitted with quick-release tabs. The FKM Ocean strap that ships by default with the C3 is more comfortable, as the holes are closer together and there’s a special slot in the end for the keeper to rest in, ensuring it doesn’t wobble about. It’s excellent and gives a sleek look, though the textured surface can accrue dirt and grime. That fitted to the C5 provides a more textured look, with more breathability, at the cost of adjustability; the holes are pretty far apart.
Out of the two, I definitely prefer the smaller C3; not just because it fits me better, but because I think it looks properly proportioned and in keeping with the retro design. If you can rock a 36, it’s definitely my preferred pick. The C3 is perhaps the best-fitting watch I’ve ever worn on my 6 ¼ inch wrist.
Alternatives
If the $299 price tag seems a bit steep to you, or you’re not particularly bothered by the American movement, Vaer offers up some far lower-cost field watches in the ‘S’ series, which rely on a Miyota movement and Chinese assembly, but have otherwise comparable performance.
That said, I’m mostly excited to see what Vaer can do with their solar watches. After all, for a brand focused on performance and durability, solar feels like a sensical choice. Unfortunately, I’ve been left feeling a little underwhelmed by the C3 Tactical that they sent over.
I mean, it’s ok. It’s well-priced, at barely a scratch more than the standard Ameriquartz, and the blacked-out look certainly matches the moniker. The lume is also phenomenal. That said, the dial looks a little boring and predictable, lacking the character offered by other Vaer watches. It kind of looks just like every other black-dialed field watch, which may suit some, but it’s not what I’d be after anywhere past the $100 mark. The other watches manage to look both functional and stylish, which is the ideal combination, isn’t it?
This tactical look isn’t very prevalent in the UK, given the absence of firearm legality and culture here, so it’s no surprise I find myself at odds with the C3 Tactical. Personally, if the Korean solar field watch comes back into stock, I’d absolutely pounce on that instead. It’s lower-cost, identically specced, and features a much more exclusive, attractive design rarely touched by watch companies, who typically prefer WW2-inspired timepieces.
That looks like one of the best value options in the watch industry if it looks half as pretty in the flesh; I’ll try and get my hands on that one at some point.
So that’s five watches, three of which I’d recommend or buy if they fit me. For me, that’s a darn good strike rate!
What’s most surprising is that their founder is still their lead designer after all these years, which is insane; his progress in this area has been very impressive to see!